I Went to Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin

Back in September, our Vacheron Constantin area sales rep emailed one of the Zadoks to ask if I would be able to attend a training with the brand in Geneva, Switzerland the following month.

Let’s see, I thought. Do I want to go on an all expenses paid trip to Geneva with one of the oldest and most respected watch manufactures in the history of watchmaking to visit their headquarters? As part of an exclusive group of only five other salespeople from big time retailers in the North American market? Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin? Oh gee, I don’t know. I’ll have to think about it.

NOT.

I realized I’d be about five months pregnant during the trip, so I immediately called my OB to make sure I was okay to travel. I knew I would be, but I also knew my husband would be very unhappy if I accepted the invitation without talking to the doctor first. As soon as I got the go-ahead, I emailed back to accept the invitation and texted my husband to let him know I’d be jetting off to Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin for a week while carrying our unborn child. He was cool with it.

If you’ve never heard of Vacheron Constantin, it’s because they only make about 25,000 watches per year. Compare this to Rolex, which produces more than 800,000 per year. Vacheron Constantin doesn’t do any marketing with celebrities, either. It is one of the watchmaking maisons under the Richemont group, which also owns Cartier, Montblanc and Jaeger-LeCoultre, to name a few. Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755 in Geneva and has had uninterrupted production since then. No other manufacture can make the same claim. Think about it– that’s older than the United States. They specialize in belle haute horlogerie, or beautiful high watchmaking. After my trip, I understand better than ever what that actually means.

First Impressions

Geneva in autumn is gorgeous. The leaves are turning, the weather is chilly but not too cold, and the sky is overcast for the most part. Coming from the tail end of a Houston summer, I loved it.

The Jardin Anglais in autumn
Walking around the Jardin Anglais.
L'horloge Fleurie in Geneva
Geneva’s famous attraction, L’horloge fleurie (flower clock)

It’s the kind of city where no one jaywalks and everything runs on time. Plus, they speak French, so I got to practice.

Geneva at dusk during my trip to Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin
Geneva at dusk. No jaywalkers in sight.

Day 1: Let the Training Begin

Our first full day began at the Vacheron Constantin manufacture and administrative headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, which is about a 30 minute drive outside the city center. Designed by famed architect Bernard Tschumi, the building was completed in 2005 and is a sight to behold.

Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin
Our group. The inside of the building is just as beautiful as the outside.

This day started with a general reintroduction to the maison’s history and a look at some heritage pieces from the archives. We saw some truly incredible things. My favorite was the original watch inspired by Gerard Mercator’s 16th century atlas.

Vacheron Constantin acquired the atlas itself at auction many years later, so we got to see that, too! Mercator created the term “atlas” to describe a collection of maps, if that gives you any idea of his importance in the world of cartography.

Title page of the Mercator atlas
The title page of Mercator’s atlas. Amazing!

We also got to see a watch from 1921 that inspired the design of a watch I sold last year!

In the afternoon, we got to practice putting together a mechanical watch movement. I didn’t have a knack for this, but I managed to finish. It was an interesting exercise and I was glad I got to try it out. I should note that it was not a Vacheron Constantin movement!

That night, we ate our weight in fondue at Hôtel de Ville. If you ever find yourself in Switzerland while not drinking, our waiter suggested an excellent pairing for me. (I had finished my sad one-third of a glass of wine and was looking dejected, which prompted him to make the suggestion). It was a Swiss sparkling apple juice and it did indeed go very well with the cheese. I regret not bringing a few bottles home for the holidays. Martinelli’s apple cider is not the same.

Day 2: Journey Into the Vallée de Joux

Day two was my favorite. I woke up with a raging sore throat and felt very tired, but chose to ignore that. We boarded our shuttle and headed toward Le Brassus, a town in the Vallée de Joux about an hour and a half from central Geneva. It was otherworldly.

Fall leaves in Switzerland
Beautiful fall leaves as we headed up into the Alps.
Cloud cover in the Swiss Alps
Cloud cover in the Alps.

The Vacheron Constantin manufacture in Le Brassus handles watch component production and finishing. Before assembly by a watchmaker, each component is hand decorated to extremely strict aesthetic standards set by the maison. Most of our day focused on this, and we got to observe the people doing it in action. Imagine your entire workday, work week, work life devoted to engraving one tiny part of a watch movement, for example. It takes an unbelievable amount of concentration and skill.

Movement decoration
Go follow @vacheronconstantin

I got to try my hand at a couple, including perlage, also known as circular graining. This requires pressing a tiny whirring engraver onto a movement plate to create overlapping circles. It’s vital to maintain the same amount of pressure when pulling down each time and just as important keep the circles perfectly spaced. I did okay!

Trying perlage
Trying my hand at perlage. I was excited; they were amused.

I also did some chamfering, which is beveling a perfect 45 degree angle onto any edge that requires it. There is no way to measure the angle; you only know it’s right from the way the light reflects. Having done some bench jewelry work in the past, I was better at this. I’m still waiting for my job offer, though. Any day now!

In Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin trying perlage and chamfering
The expert’s example perlage rows are on the outside. I pressed down too hard on my rows and didn’t space as evenly. At the bottom right you can see the reflection of my chamfered edge.

We made the drive back to Geneva and I passed out most of the way back, as did everyone else. When we got back, we made a visit to the Vacheron Constantin Geneva boutique, conveniently located right next to our hotel. It was immaculate and beautiful. Now that I mention it, I don’t think I saw a speck of dust anywhere the entire time I was in Switzerland.

By the end of the day I felt like death warmed over, and in addition to the sore throat, I had the sniffles. So after dinner I went to bed early, excited for our last day of training.

Day 3:

Our last day brought us back to the headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates. My nose was running like a faucet by now, and any hope of a quick recovery had flown out the window, but I didn’t have a fever so I was determined to make it through the last day. I knew I had a run-of-the-mill cold, so I just tried my best to pay attention while sanitizing my hands a lot.

Despite my faucet nose, it was a really nice day. We visited the Métiers d’Art workshop, where we got to see enameling and hand engraving of some specialty pieces. The gem setter was on vacation, unfortunately, so we didn’t get to see any watches being set with diamonds or gemstones. (The Swiss get something like 40 vacation days a year, so it was inevitable that someone would be gone during these tours– good for them!) We couldn’t take photos of the engraving, but I was able to capture this nifty wall of enamel colors.

Enamel wall in Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin
Wall of enamel. The colors!

We also visited the design studio, where we got to learn about the entire design process, from creative inspiration to 3D-printed prototypes to final color selection. No photos were allowed here, for obvious reasons. I appreciated this peek behind the curtain in particular. Most watch trainings primarily focus on brand history and watch movements with maybe a minute or two devoted to design inspiration, so to get a detailed explanation of the creative process surrounding aesthetics was interesting.

At the end of the day, we had a mini-graduation of sorts. Hugo Castro, the international training project manager for Vacheron Constantin, presented each of us with a certificate of completion.

Graduating in Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin
Graduation day with Hugo Castro at the Vacheron Constantin headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates.

I had such an amazing experience in Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin and cannot thank the training team enough. It was better than I could have dreamed. I understand so much better the time and effort put into creating these amazing timepieces. I wish I hadn’t gotten sick, but I have no regrets.

VacheronConstantinCabinotiers
It can take three months to finish engraving a case like this. Courtesy: Vacheron Constantin
Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin, Lake Geneva, a rainbow and cold meds
One last sunset looking at Lake Geneva and a rainbow. I enjoyed both along with hot chocolate and completely useless pregnancy-friendly herbal cold meds. Being in Switzerland with Vacheron Constantin was a dream.

Jewels Around the World: Shopping for Emeralds in Cartagena, Colombia

Street view Cartagena

In my last post, I wrote about spending the day in Bogota’s emerald district. But what if you aren’t spending time in Bogotá during your Colombian adventure? Not to worry! There are plenty of emeralds to be found all over the country. If you’re only hitting Colombia’s Caribbean coast, you’ll love this guide to shopping for emeralds in Cartagena.

There are two main areas in Cartagena where you’ll see a concentration of emerald jewelry stores. The first is in the neighborhood of El Laguito, which lies just south of Bocagrande. (If you’re not staying inside the walled city, you’re probably staying in Bocagrande.) Here, you’ll find an outdoor mall of sorts with multiple emerald stores. I’ve heard taxi divers call it Plaza de las Esmeraldas. As you walk around, people will beckon you to come inside their stores, but don’t worry. Unlike the people who sell stuff on the beach, no one is particularly aggressive about it.

The store I liked the most in El Laguito was called Jewelry Factory. It’s a family business going back to 1953. The people working there were extremely friendly and happy to show me around.

Jewelry Factory exterior
The outside of Jewelry Factory in El Laguito. The charming older gentleman behind me watches the door.

With the owner of Jewelry Factory
With the owner of Jewelry Factory. Behind us is the jewelers’ workshop.



Unlike many stores, they had a section of silver jewelry set with better quality emeralds. Most stores in Colombia save lower-quality stones for silver jewelry, but at Jewelry Factory, they recognize that some people are in it for the stone. I saw a lot of cool pieces that would work well as souvenirs or gifts. I got a cute silver coffee bean and emerald pendant with matching silver chain for about USD $20. Not bad, right?

Silver and emerald coffee bean suite
Silver and emerald coffee bean suite. So cute! There’s nothing more Colombian than emeralds and coffee.

Silver flower studs with deep green emeralds
I almost got some of these silver flower studs set with deep green emeralds. Most silver pieces at other stores will have emeralds that are quite light in color.



For serious buyers who are ready to plunk down some cash for something really special, I recommend Lucy Jewelry, located within the Ciudad Amurallada, or walled city. This is where the second concentration of emerald stores lies. Lucy is the most upscale store of the bunch. If you’re looking for the best Colombia has to offer, this is a great place to shop. It’s gorgeous on the inside, but don’t worry about being under dressed. You’re a tourist, so no one will care as long as you’re not in a swimsuit.

Lucy Jewelry exterior
Lucy Jewelry’s gorgeous exterior. I was on my last day of clean clothes, and they did not judge me for looking like a sweaty bum.

Showroom at Lucy Jewelry
The showroom at Lucy Jewelry. The store is actually a remodeled colonial carriage house. As you can see, the interior stone walls are original.



As soon as we walked in, a salesperson asked if we needed help in English or Spanish, so it doesn’t matter if you don’t have Spanish skills here. Although it lacks a family feel, this store had by far the best quality stones and jewelry out of everywhere I went in Colombia this trip. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take any photos of the jewelry, but they did let me photograph a few things.

Different qualities of polished emeralds
Some examples of different qualities of polished emeralds. Which is your favorite?

Rough and cabochon emeralds
Some emerald specimens they keep on hand. I’m fond of the rough crystals (left).

For a little something different, head to Joyas Momposinas L&L, also found within the Ciudad Amurallada. Here, a family from the Colombian city Santa Cruz de Mompox sells filigree jewelry, or filigrana. Santa Cruz de Mompox is known all over Colombia for this type of metalwork, a tradition which goes back hundreds of years to colonial times. One enterprising family decided to take their wares to sell in Cartagena, and Joyas Momposinas L&L was born.

Joyas Momposinas exterior
Joyas Momposinas L&L is on a typical picturesque street in the Ciudad Amurallada.

Window display
A close-up of the window display.



Most of what the family makes is silver, but if you want yellow gold, they can do that as well. While emeralds are frequently utilized, many pieces are just metal. One day I’ll visit Santa Cruz de Mompox and write about it, but this was a great preview. Mompox isn’t a big tourist destination (yet), so this is a great way to see and buy some of the coolest jewelry in Colombia without leaving Cartagena. And, if you ask nicely, they’ll give you a demonstration of the technique in the back.

Filigree earrings
Earrings like these stunners can take days to make. Each little silver thread is turned, twisted and sautered by hand.

Filigree butterfly
They were kind enough to give me a demonstration of the filigree technique. This is a butterfly the jeweler was working on.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my guide to shopping for emeralds in Cartagena, Colombia. Whether you’re spending a few days in the city or just passing through on a cruise, I have no doubt you will fall in love with Cartagena and its people. You may as well take a little souvenir home so you can remember it forever. Trust me, you won’t regret it.

Plates with rough emeralds
If you have no appreciation for jewelry, I’m not sure how you found your way to Jewels Abound, but you could always get one of these sweet souvenir plates decorated with rough emeralds from the Jewelry Factory.

Street view Cartagena
Just your average street view inside the walled city in Cartagena.

Jewelry Factory
Local 1, Cra. 1 #1A-120
Barrio El Laguito
Cartagena, Colombia
+57 1 6651519

Lucy Jewelry
Calle Santo Domingo #3-19 Edificio Cuesta
Ciudad Amurallada
Cartagena, Colombia
+57 5 6644255

Joyería Momposina L&L
Cra. 7 #38-2
Ciudad Amurallada
Cartagena, Colombia
+57 6606479

Jewels Around the World: The Emerald District in Bogotá, Colombia

My husband and I just got back from a fabulous trip to Colombia. We traveled to Barranquilla, Valledupar, Medellín and Cartagena to visit family and friends. But first, we went to Bogotá, the thriving capital city with a population of more than 10 million. We lived there for almost a year and it’s where we got engaged and legally married. There are a million things to do in Colombia, but I highly recommend spending a day in the Emerald District in Bogotá, which we revisited during this trip.

The Emerald District lies adjacent to Bogotá’s historic center, better known as La Candelaria. If it’s your first time in Bogotá, La Candelaria is a great place to stay. Beautiful colonial architecture, fabulous food and museums will be around every corner. Plus, every important emerald-related activity is within walking distance.


A view of Bogotá as seen from the Emerald Museum, which is on the 23rd floor of the Avianca building. This building was the tallest skyscraper in Latin America upon its completion in 1969.

The first stop on your tour should be the Museo Internacional de la Esmeralda, or Emerald Museum, located at the intersection of calle 17 and carrera 7. (Click here for an explanation of Bogotá’s grid system.) The Emerald Museum is on the 23rd floor of the Avianca building, which was once the tallest skyscraper in Latin America. Simply enter on the ground floor and tell the staff at the desk that you are there to go to the museum. They will likely ask for ID and take your photo, so be sure to have your passport on you. Then head to the elevator, and up you go.

The doors will open and you will walk right into the reception area.

The reception area of the Emerald Museum.

After paying the COP$5000 per person entry fee (less than US$2.00), a guide will show you to a room to watch a short video about the history of the museum, which was founded in 2008 and displays a private collection. Then, the guide will walk you through a reproduction of three of the most important mines in Colombia: Muzo, Chivor and Coscuez. The tunnel is fake, but the veins in the wall displaying rough emeralds, pyrite and quartz are very real!

This is the only part of the museum where you can take photos. Look, I’m mining!

Then, you will enter a room filled with towers containing some truly stunning rough emerald specimens. The guide will walk you through them, pointing out different characteristics in the specimens that come from different mines. The Muzo mine generally contains the highest quality emeralds. There are also beautiful panoramic views of the city from this room. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed in most of the museum.

Finally, you will visit the museum’s store. It’s not your average gift shop. This is where my husband and I chose my engagement ring five years ago. My ring has an emerald center stone from the Muzo mine. This time around, however, I wasn’t very impressed with what it had to offer in terms of design or quality compared with previous visits. Or perhaps I’m just spoiled now that I work at Zadok Jewelers, where I see magnificent gems on a daily basis. That’s probably it. Anyway, their inventory is constantly changing, so be sure to check it out.

The exterior of the Avianca Building.
The Gold Museum is about a 10 second walk from the Emerald Museum.

Right next to the Emerald Museum is the Museo del Oro, the Gold Museum. How convenient! This museum contains multiple floors and exhibition halls displaying gold artifacts and information about gold’s role in the lives of Colombians throughout the country’s history. You could spend hours here. There is an audio guide that you can purchase, and the entry fee alone is just COP $4000 (about USD $1.25). I’ve never felt the need to purchase an audio guide since there is plenty of information on the walls, but many say it’s well worth it.

Indigenous king
That’s gotta be heavy.

Human gold figures with emeralds
Gold figurines show the human form. Often, the indigenous would use emeralds to decorate their gold pieces. Can’t blame them. Gold and emeralds were everywhere!

After all this museum going, you will probably be ready to do some shopping. Lucky for you, there are plenty of treasures to be found. I recommend heading just a few blocks south of the museums to window shop. The sheer quantity of emerald jewelry stores is pretty impressive!

Emerald district in Bogotá
One of a million window displays seen in the Emerald District in Bogotá.

Emerald district in Bogotá
Some emerald rings on display.

I bought a little something for myself at Joyería y Relojería Angie, a family-owned shop of wholesalers in business for more than 20 years. Lucia, who helped us, was extremely kind and happy to answer all of my questions. She has been working with her family for decades, sourcing emeralds directly from the mines. You can find her shop in La Catedral, a small shopping center on a street lined with emerald jewelry stores. To see what I got, you’ll have to keep an eye on the Jewels Abound Instagram!

Emerald district in Bogotá
Some divine loose emeralds I saw at Joyería y Relojería Angie. I was really tempted to get one.

Emerald district in Bogotá
Me with the lovely Lucia at Joyería y Relojería Angie.

Of course, it’s always fun to walk by the Emerald Trade Center to see the traders making deals out in the street. I’ve never taken a picture there because it can be chaotic, but it’s worth walking by.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this e-tour of the Emerald District in Bogotá. Colombia exports more emeralds than any other country, so if you happen to travel to Bogotá, it’s a great opportunity to learn about a huge part of the country’s history and economy. Best of all, it’s accessible to any traveler, from backpacker to trust funder. The museum entry fees are extremely low, and I’ve seen emerald and silver jewelry pieces that start at US$10.00. ¡Buen viaje!

Jewels Around the World: World Jewellery Museum in Seoul

I have to admit that the World Jewellery Museum in Seoul, South Korea was not on my radar as a jewelry tourism destination. By jewelry tourism, I don’t mean shopping. I’m talking about sightseeing that involves jewelry and gemstones!

Think oohing and ahhing over the Hope Diamond at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C., or waiting in line to see the Crown Jewels in the Tower of London. Or, staring way too long at a diamond-studded replica of “Starry Night” at Amsterdam’s Diamond Museum during your spring break from graduate school. It all counts.

At the time, I was more focused on the “Rocket Man” debacle and resultant escalating tensions than planning an itinerary. But one day during my lunch break at the store, I was flipping through “Lonely Planet: Seoul” and came across the World Jewellery Museum. I was immediately intrigued and knew we’d have to make a stop there during our trip. After investigating more, I learned that it was founded in 2004 by Lee Kang-Won, a diplomat’s wife who amassed an impressive collection of jewelry during her decades of world travel. The museum features her private collection along with donated pieces.

Before the trip I reached out to Elaine Kim, the founder’s daughter and current deputy director of the museum. In addition to her work at the museum, she is a museum management and curatorship professor at Kyung Hee University. I asked if I could meet her, but sadly, she would be traveling during my time in Seoul. Despite never meeting in person, she was incredibly gracious and generous with her time and resources.

Entrance of World Jewellery Museum
At the entrance to the World Jewellery Museum in Seoul, South Korea.

Elaine’s passion for what she does is evident. The entire layout of the museum is reminiscent of a jewelry box with different compartments. The first two floors are dark, but strategically-placed spotlights illuminate the collections. There is jewelry from all over the world and many different time periods. From African tribal jewelry to a stunning gown embroidered with pearls, patrons will have their eyes opened to just how important jewelry has been as a cultural symbol throughout history. Seeing so many examples of this in one place is quite striking.

Vintage jewelry and watches
Each piece is chosen with care and has a story.

Long gown embroidered with pearls
How long do you think it took to embroider this gown with pearls?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The top floor features rotating exhibitions. When I visited, the exhibition was Masterpieces with Painted Jewels. It featured reproductions of some of the most famous paintings in the world, all of which include jewelry. Johannes Vermeer’s “Girl with a Pearl Earring,” Grant Wood’s “American Gothic” and Gustav Klimt’s “The Woman in Gold” were just a few of the works there. Next to each print was an explanation of the artist’s use of specific jewelry pieces to convey meaning.

As a lover of both travel and jewelry, I found this fascinating. I’ve seen several of the paintings in person during various trips and very much enjoyed reading about the jewelry in each one. It’s a testament to Elaine’s curating skills that I barely noticed the amazing view from the floor-to-ceiling windows until after I read the explanation next to every work.

"The Coronation of Napoleon" by Jacques Louis David
“The Coronation of Napoleon” by Jacques Louis David. I took this photo at the Louvre in Paris in 2007. It’s one of my favorite paintings, and it was featured in Masterpieces with Painted Jewels.

The World Jewellery Museum makes for a perfect stop before or after exploring the nearby Bukchon Hanok Village or Gyeongbokgung Palace, two of the better-known tourist destinations in Seoul. I highly recommend visiting this hidden treasure if you ever find yourself in the neighborhood.

World Jewellery Museum
75-3 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu
Seoul, South Korea
+82 2-730-1610