My First Time at COUTURE and JCK: Day 3 and Takeaways

Catch up on Day 1

Catch up on Day 2

Saturday morning began bright and early with the Plumb Club breakfast at the ungodly hour of 7:15 a.m. The Plumb Club is an organization of suppliers whose purpose is to connect its members and their customers and help shape the future of the jewelry industry. The keynote speaker, Shep Hyken, gave a speech on how a great customer service experience can –must!– set any business apart.

Two main points stuck with me. The first was that customers no longer compare you to your competition, they compare you to the best service they have ever had, anywhere. Fair? No. But it is what it is. The second was that you don’t need to provide 5 star service 100% of the time to be excellent. You just need to provide above-average service consistently, with no hiccups or off days. That’s the real key.

And that’s about all I got out of the breakfast, because at this point in the trip, I was dragging. I mean really, truly, dragging. The combination of endless walking, dry desert heat and little sleep was really getting to me. Later I’d learn that many convention regulars pack humidifiers for their hotel rooms. I didn’t have one hangover the whole trip, but it didn’t matter. I was exhausted.

Activity log showing 6.4 miles and 16,165 steps
An average day’s activity log from my first time at COUTURE and JCK.

It was in this state that I returned to JCK and Luxury after the breakfast, determined to see a ton of jewelry. My feet were covered in a protective layer of band-aids and I was ready to roll–or at least I was determined to drag myself from booth to booth all day long. I’d already abandoned my plan to head to the Las Vegas convention center that day for the Premier show. I figured it was better to hit fewer shows and do them well then get just a taste of too many.

I sat on the floor briefly to consult the JCK map app and get my bearings. All of the benches were full of people resting and I remember thinking, “Okay, good, I’m not the only one struggling today.” I got up, walked a bit, and realized that I didn’t have my notebook with me. My notebook containing my notes about every single thing I’d done during my first time at COUTURE and JCK and takeaways so far. Every lecture, every booth, every random observation, gone. All of the quotes I’d written down at the panels I attended, gone. I returned to where I’d sat on the floor and it wasn’t there. So I made the hike back to the ballroom at the Venetian where the Plumb Club breakfast had taken place. A really nice staff member who was breaking down tables helped me look, but we had no luck.

Then, I visited one of the many JCK information booths to ask if there was a lost and found. What followed was a rather ridiculous back and forth journey during which JCK staff directed me to the Sands Expo security booth, the security booth people sent me back to talk to JCK staff, and on and on until I was ready to give up. After much confusion over what should have been a very simple matter, I was finally able to leave record of my missing notebook with security. (A note to the Sands Expo: your security staff needs work. Also, the security booth is left completely unattended more than it probably should be.)

At some point during all this, I took a walk among the booths and found Simon G., one of our bridal vendors.

Simon G. sapphire and diamond rings
Pretty sapphire rings.

At this point, I could have laid down on the floor next to the JCK DJ booth and gone right to sleep as thousands of people streamed by. Instead, I dragged myself back to the Mirage, grabbed some lunch to go, ate in my room and took a three-hour nap.

The DJ booth at JCK Las Vegas 2019
I walked by this DJ about 11,000 times during my notebook search. He was a champ.

I woke up and got ready for my last night in Vegas. First, I had a GIA Alumni event at a restaurant called Yardbird. But by the time I got to the event, it was so packed I couldn’t hear myself think, much less talk to anyone. Walking across the room to get a drink and a cake pop was a challenge in and of itself. This was a bummer, but I was happy to see that their event was a success. Note to self: don’t arrive fashionably late to any future GIA alumni events in Vegas! I finished my drink, ate my cake pop and headed to dinner with the Zadok team.

In the morning, I boarded my 6 a.m. flight back to Houston and passed out the entire time. It was an amazing, exhausting trip and although it didn’t go perfectly, I learned a ton. It was truly one of the coolest experiences of my life and I’m so grateful I was able to go.

I almost forgot– I did get my notebook back in the end! A few hours after I landed back in Houston, I got a text message from a woman named Caroline who works for Andreoli, a line we’ve worked with at Zadok in the past. She found my notebook at the show, saw my contact information inside and ended up giving it to my boss, who brought it back to me, along with a few lovely pieces of jewelry for the store. It’s a small world after all! Thanks again, Caroline.

Multi-hued sapphire and diamond horseshoe earrings by Andreoli
Fancy sapphire and diamond earrings in 18k white and yellow gold made by Andreoli. These were sent to the store along with my notebook. Beautiful detail front and back! Photo: Tim Ewasko

COUTURE and JCK Takeaways

  • Sustainability was the major theme of the show. A note to anyone out there who is, or could become, a jewelry customer: If you ask, you shall receive. Walmart began carrying organic products because customers repeatedly asked for them. Do you care about the origin of your diamonds? Does it matter to you where your jewelry was made, and by whom? Do you care about the carbon footprint involved to make that cute stackable band you have your eye on? Speak up. The industry will listen. It already has–thank God, or I wouldn’t be a part of it.
  • Lab grown vs. natural diamonds: will one conquer the other? Can both coexist? Are lab grown diamonds for cheaper, less formal jewelry and are natural diamonds for more expensive, occasion-oriented jewelry? This remains to be seen. The industry can do as much marketing as it wants to, but at the end of the day, the consumer will decide.
  • I have heard industry people say trade shows are dying. It didn’t look like it to me. But there are a lot of shows, and this was only my first time at COUTURE and JCK. I will say, as someone who paid her way to attend, going to a convention in Las Vegas is expensive (and I didn’t even have registration fees!) I spent 50,000 hard-earned airline miles on my flight and almost $900 on three hotel nights. That’s with the convention discount. And you have to eat, too. I admit I attended some talks because in addition to having interesting subject matter, there was free food. The Zadoks were kind enough to invite me out to dinner two nights, which made a huge difference. But for a small store, new designer, or a freelancer or blogger like me, it’s a big investment to attend one of these things.
  • Jewelry people are fun. There is minimal snobbery and cliquishness at Vegas Market Week compared to what I’ve heard about New York Fashion Week from friends who work in or adjacent to that world. With that said, big time jewelry brands with big followings may not give you the time of day. But that’s okay. No one’s going to body-block you and stop you from entering their booth.

The biggest takeaway of all? I want to go back.

My First Time at COUTURE and JCK: Day 2

Check out my post on Day 1!

My first time at COUTURE and JCK: day 2 started off with a much-anticipated panel discussion. I woke up early so that I could attend the COUTUREtalk called Lab Grown x Mined Diamonds. Somewhat mystified by the “x” in this context — did it mean “for”? “by”? “and”? — and excited to hear what the panel had to say, I was also happy to see they had breakfast.

Breakfast at COUTUREtalk Lab Grown x Mined Diamonds
Best breakfast of the trip. Thanks, COUTURE! What? It’s the most important meal of the day!

The individuals making up the panel represented a diverse array of jewelry industry professions. Designer Stephen Webster was there, as was Laura Freedman, owner of bi-coastal jewelry boutique Broken English. On the marketing end of things, they’d invited Lightbox CMO (remember my post on them?) Sally Morrison and Rachel Aaron of Canadamark Diamonds. Cathryn Ramirez of GIA moderated.

I found the discussion enjoyable, if somewhat predictable. The panelists either enthusiastically agreed with or tiptoed carefully around the party line currently marketed by the Diamond Producers Association: natural diamonds are for meaningful occasions and lab-grown diamonds are not. In other words, natural diamonds are high-end luxury items and lab-grown diamonds are for lower-priced fashion jewelry.

Stephen Webster said he thinks both natural and lab-grown stones have design potential, adding that “something new can be amazing and dynamic.” He did not bring up his collaboration with Atelier Swarovski called Double Diamond. That collection used lab-grown diamonds and lab-grown quartz dubbed “Swarovski-created.” (At least, I don’t think he brought it up. I got a little distracted at one point when I realized that Liza Urla of Gemologue was seated one table over.) The Double Diamond collection was priced from $1,990 up to $11,000. I’d consider that aimed at the luxury consumer, wouldn’t you?

The COUTUREtalks Lab Grown x Mined Diamonds panel seated onstage
From left to right: Cathryn Ramirez, Laura Freedman, Sally Morrison, Stephen Webster and Rachel Aaron

Laura Freedman seemed to be taking a wait-and-see approach with her stores. “Consumers are not asking for this product yet, but it’s coming,” she said. Sally Morrison shared that Lightbox isn’t seeing a particular millennial focus on lab-grown diamonds, which many wrongly assume, then drilled her main point home: “One thing a lab-grown diamond is not is rare, because we can make them over and over again.” Message received.

When it came time for the audience Q&A, I raised my hand to ask why it’s being treated as an established fact that lab-grown diamonds are for lesser occasions. We’re seeing a big push in the bridal market with lab-grown center diamonds, for example. If that’s not celebrating a momentous occasion with a lab-grown diamond, what is? But I didn’t get to ask my question, because a man from the lab-grown industry stood up and loudly interrupted with, “I just want to say…” and then shared an unsolicited opinion.

“Well, I would like to hear what you had to say,” said a nice woman sitting to my left when Mr. Interrupter finished and people stood up to leave. I talked to her and the man to my right about my question for a bit. They agreed that that the lab-grown vs. natural mindset is not set in stone. Then, she invited me to her company’s party that evening. She worked for –wait for it– Atelier Swarovski.

It was time for the trek to pick up my badge and explore JCK and Luxury by JCK. I was walking toward the COUTURE exit when I spotted Barbara Palumbo sitting by herself, shuffling through some papers. She’s a freelance writer I discovered after stumbling upon this blog post about her experiences with sexual harassment in the jewelry industry. She wrote it a year before the #MeToo movement became a thing. I knew I’d regret it if I didn’t meet her, so I walked over and said hello. I was nervous, because you never know who’s going to be an asshole in this world. But she was really warm and funny and game to take a picture with me.

Jewels Abound and Barbara Palumbo pose together at the COUTURE show.
With Barbara Palumbo of Adornmentality and What’s on her Wrist.

Who took the photo of us? None other than Katerina Perez, jewelry blogger extraordinaire. She’d come over to say hi to Barbara when I was talking to her. So in the span of about 20 minutes, I saw three successful bloggers I admire, met two and got a photo with one. Not too shabby!

Once I made it to the Venetian, I headed to the Sands Expo and Convention Center, home of JCK. My first impression? Holy shit, this is MASSIVE. I got my badge and intended on taking a quick lap around the convention to get my bearings. I quickly realized there is no such thing as a quick lap at JCK. There were multiple floors, ballrooms, lounge areas and an entire gemstone pavilion. What seemed like a million vendors had everything from loose opals to charms to chains to the latest in CAD and CRM software. There was even a DJ who played from start to finish every day! It was wild.

Benches and street signs inside the Sands for JCK Las Vegas
The benches and street signs were very necessary.

I completed my sorry attempt at a lap and wasn’t sure what to do. It was almost time for a GIA panel called Embracing Sustainability Amid New Consumer Expectations, so I headed in that direction. The idea of sitting down for a while was really appealing.

The talk opened with a video montage. Loud, ominous music blared from speakers and images of blood diamond magazine covers and child miners danced across the screen. As the lights came back on, Susan Jacques, president and CEO of GIA, took the stage to introduce the speakers. She emphasized our industry’s need to change the public’s perceptions by focusing on the efforts being made to improve industry-wide. “We must be the change we wish to see in the world,” she said.

Claire Piroddi, Dr. Saleem Ali, Lisa Bridge, Marcus ter Haar, Nadja Swarovski and Susan Jacques onstage
Claire Piroddi of Kering, Dr. Saleem Ali from the University of Delaware, Lisa Bridge of Ben Bridge Jewelers, Marcus ter Haar of Okavango Diamond Company, Nadja Swarovski of Swarovski, and Susan Jacques of GIA

Overall, I was very pleased to learn of the different efforts being made from mine to market to treat our planet better. Everyone acknowledged that today’s consumers care about where their jewelry comes from, and that it’s our job to make sure we’re taking care of the earth and sourcing our materials responsibly.

While all of the panelists were excellent, two in particular stood out to me. Claire Piroddi holds the title of Sustainability Manager of Watches and Jewelry for Kering. Kering is a luxury group that owns brands like Ulysse Nardin and Pomellato, both of which we carry at Zadok Jewelers. Kering has developed a sustainability road map to 2025 that includes reducing its environmental footprint, promoting gender equality and embracing new technology and startups.

Marcus ter Haar is CEO of Okvango Diamond Company, which operates in Botswana. He talked about the positive impact that diamond mining has had on Botswana, which has a partnership with DeBeers called Debswana. The government of Botswana and DeBeers each own 50% of Debswana. Every diamond mined in Botswana that a consumer later purchases helps provide education, free healthcare and more. Most consumers don’t know about this, so it’s precisely the kind of thing we need to educate them about.

After that, I waited by the door, hoping to make it into a GIA lab I registered for a little too late. I was on the waiting list, but in the end did not get to participate. At this point, I felt a little frustrated with myself. I’d vastly underestimated the time it would take simply to get from point A to point B every day, and I wasn’t getting to see nearly as much jewelry as I thought I would. It was time to get serious.

During my attempt to get serious, I found myself completely lost in the gemstone pavilion. Which was okay, because I got to see this cool opal from Cody Opal Australia.

A 59.51 ct. black opal displaying flashes of blue and green
59.51 ct. of Australian black opal awesomeness.

Too exhausted to do anything else, I went back to my room, took a nap, went out to dinner with the Zadok team and called it a day. I would return to JCK and JCK Luxury the next day and make up for lost time.

Or so I thought.

Stay tuned for the third and final post about my first time at COUTURE and JCK!

My First Time at COUTURE and JCK: Day 1

My plane to Las Vegas was seventeenth in line and 45 minutes late for takeoff when I decided that whatever happened during my first time at COUTURE and JCK, I would just roll with it. I was about to attend the most important annual jewelry trade shows in the country, and I needed to chill out.

My anticipation had been building since January, when I asked my bosses if I could register under Zadok Jewelers so that I could attend for Jewels Abound. I would pay my own way, running around and exploring for the blog while they attended to official buying business. It would be one of the coolest experiences of my life, and I’d have an amazing time. But I didn’t know that, because I was stuck on the tarmac at IAH.

I did finally make it to Vegas with my nerves intact. The silver lining of arriving much later than I’d planned was that my room at the Mirage was ready for check-in.

Room key dispenser
The self check-in did not exist the last time I stayed at this hotel three years ago. No line!

The next stop was picking up my badge at the COUTURE registration desk at the Wynn hotel. Since 1995, COUTURE has brought together big-name heritage brands and emerging design talent to showcase their newest creations. Thousands of retail buyers and members of the press attend the show each year. (COUTUREtime, for Swiss watches, is also at the Wynn, but I did not make it to the watch show.)

Me holding my COUTURE badge at the Wynn
I was seriously so jazzed to get this badge. I’ll keep it forever.

Once I got my badge, it was time to hit the booths. I was really nervous. Even though I work for a well-known store, I didn’t know if anyone would want to talk to me. I felt like the new kid at school trying to find a seat in the cafeteria for the first time. Where do I go first? Who looks nice?

Irene Neuwirth is a personal favorite, so I made a beeline for her booth. I was hoping to see the one-of-a-kind ribbon earrings Rachel Brosnahan wore to the 2019 SAG Awards in person, since I knew they were still for sale. I asked someone working there if I could see them, and got to hold them in my hand. They were stunning in person, just lovely. But when I asked if I could take a picture of them, the girl helping me got uncomfortable and said she wasn’t sure. This was the only time during my three days in Las Vegas when someone didn’t respond with an immediate yes to a photo request. I’m still not sure why. There are photos of those earrings all over the internet and they were trying to sell them at the show. Oh well! I decided to move on.

As I tried to decide who to visit next, a friendly “Hello!” rang out in my direction. It was David, a kind gentleman who works for Beverly Hills designer Dena Kemp. Dena herself was there as well, and we started chatting. It was also her first year at COUTURE, and she and David were more than willing to show me their line. My favorite piece was a one-of-a-kind mint tourmaline and diamond ring.

Close-up of a large mint tourmaline and diamond Dena Kemp ring
Mint tourmalines and diamonds were used in this intricate one-of-a-kind ring. (“Mint” just refers to the color). Dena travels around the world to purchase the stones she uses in her jewelry herself!

After this second encounter, I began feeling more comfortable. I walked around the COUTURE showroom as much as I could, trying to visit as many designers on my list as possible. All in all I got to see a decent amount of jewelry and I met a lot of really nice people who were happy to show off their designs. I didn’t get as many photos and videos as I would have liked because a lot of designers were in meetings, so sometimes it was difficult to capture the pieces I wanted to see. Here’s a bit more of what I saw.

A selection of Lydia Courteille designs at COUTURE 2019
Lydia Courteille is a fabulous French designer with a badass new collection called Marie Antoinette Dark Side. That collection was constantly in meetings, so I didn’t get to photograph it. But this selection of pieces is also a good example of her creative and fantastical designs. I did get to meet Lydia and I think she’s a genius.
A golden south sea pearl and diamond necklace at COUTURE from Yoko London Pearls
Yoko London Pearls was one of the first brands I followed as @jewelsabound on Instagram. It was a real treat to finally see their creations and meet CEO Michael Hakimian in person. Is this golden south sea pearl and diamond necklace a showstopper or what?
Karen Suen diamond earrings on display at COUTURE

Karen Suen, based in Hong Kong, is another favorite Instagram follow that I was excited to see in person my first time at COUTURE and JCK. These black, gray and white diamond earrings have amazing movement. Her team could not have been nicer! Karen had stepped away when I was there, unfortunately, and I never did find the time to go back to her booth.

Karen Suen emerald earrings on display at COUTURE

These emerald and diamond earrings were divine. Look at the carved emerald leaves and the smooth cabochon drops. Phenomenal color. Plus, the drops are detachable!

Before I knew it, it was time to head back to my hotel to prepare for the COUTURE opening night party. I decided to make a quick stop at the Stuller table on my way out. I’ve ordered many an earring back from this Lafayette, Louisiana-based company, so I wanted to say hi. Plus, they had a zen garden to play with! Then, something crazy happened. One of the women working for Stuller, Katie Kennedy, and I realized that our mothers are both from Donaldsonville, Louisiana. Donaldsonville is an extremely small town, so we pretty much flipped out and texted our mothers immediately.

Abby and Katie Kennedy at the Stuller table at COUTURE Las Vegas
Here I am with Stuller’s Katie Kennedy, the only person I know who has been to Donaldsonville, Louisiana that I am not related to.

It turned out my mom did know of her family growing up! It was one of those crazy small-world moments that I never could have imagined would happen during my first time at COUTURE and JCK.

Finally, it was party time! The theme was #ThrowbackThursday 80’s Night. Not a lot of people came in 80’s themed outfits, but there was an awesome band, plenty of drinks and good company. It was a great way to officially kick off my first time at COUTURE and JCK.

Stay tuned for more from my first time at COUTURE and JCK!

De Beers Enters the Lab-Grown Diamond Game with Lightbox

The jewelry world was jolted awake the Tuesday after Memorial Day when De Beers announced its entry into the lab-grown diamond industry. The company’s new jewelry brand, Lightbox, will feature stud earrings and pendants set with lab-grown diamonds in white, light blue or light pink. Customers will be able to choose from sterling silver, 10k rose gold-plated silver or 10k white gold settings. Eventually, more diamond colors will be added.

Blue and pink diamond earrings and pendants.
A selection of Lightbox jewelry. I’d be very curious to see the colors in real life. Y’all know how I get about fancy colored diamonds. Photo courtesy of Lightbox.

Touting a simple pricing method and what De Beers says is increased wearability for all ages due to a lower price point, the company, which at one time controlled 90% of the world’s natural diamond manufacturing and distribution, has sent out shock waves with the launch. Not only has De Beers spent the past few years supporting the diamond industry’s Real is Rare ad campaign, but the pricing of Lightbox’s lab-grown diamonds undercuts competitors’ lab-grown diamond pricing by as much as 75%. That’ll be $800 per carat retail. Surprise! And, ouch.

But let’s rewind for a moment so I can jog your memory. Come back in time with me to the 1990s, when De Beers had some of the most influential television ads out there. Check out the one below.

Effective, right? At least it was back then. The romance! That music! But sometime between Prince Charles putting a sapphire ring on it and when everyone realized the De Beers-advertised two months’ salary rule was a myth, interest in diamond alternatives grew. As lab-grown diamonds have become easier and cheaper to produce, an industry has sprouted up, piquing the interest of many potential consumers for whom the natural diamond industry leaves a bad taste in their mouths (or a hole in their wallets). De Beers has produced lab-grown diamonds for industrial use for years, but had never expressed interest in expanding that part of their business.

Which brings us back to Lightbox. Much of its marketing toes the line between promoting the product as desirable and categorizing it squarely in the fashion space. It’s something you wouldn’t mind taking (or losing) on vacation, for “birthdays and beach days and just because days.” The Lightbox slogan seems to be “moments, not milestones.” Natural diamonds are heirlooms; lab-grown diamonds are not. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Women frolic on beach wearing Lightbox jewelry.
MILLENNIAL SPOTTING: A group of young women frolic on the beach wearing Lightbox jewelry. Photo courtesy of Lightbox.

Do you see what De Beers is doing here? By marketing lab-grown diamonds as beautiful but downmarket baubles appropriate for a teenager while maintaining the superiority of natural diamonds for milestones such as an engagement or anniversary, they are attempting to further separate, and dominate, two markets. Divide and conquer, if you will! De Beers wants to shake up the lab-grown diamond industry by preventing customers from considering them for an important piece of jewelry, such as an engagement ring. It’s a strategic choice to set Lightbox pieces in silver, plated gold or 10k gold. (The standard for fine jewelry is 14-18k solid gold or platinum).  They want to maintain and strengthen their presence in the natural diamond industry by emphasizing what they say is natural diamonds’ superiority and rarity. After all, De Beers still invests quite a lot more in natural diamonds than in lab-grown diamonds.

It appears that De Beers’ end goal with Lightbox is to have their cake and eat it, too. Only time will tell if their methods will pay off. What do you think of the Lightbox brand? Do you have any opinions on natural vs. lab-grown diamonds? Let me know in the comments!